Last Updated on October 20, 2026 by Umar Farooq
For most DIY patios and walkways on a dense-graded gravel base, plastic paver edging is the right choice: it bends to curves, costs noticeably less per foot than aluminum, and holds just as well when it sits on compacted base and is spiked properly. Choose aluminum or steel when the base is open-graded or permeable, when you want sharp corners or a low, hidden profile, or when the pavers are large natural stone. Whatever you pick, the spikes do most of the holding: 10-inch steel spikes into compacted base, closer together on curves and anywhere cars drive. For the full picture, see permeable pavers cost. We have a separate page on steel paver edging if you need the specifics.
The full rundown of every edging type, including concrete toes and precast curbs, is in our paver edging guide. This page is the head-to-head between the two you'll see on the shelf.
Plastic and aluminum edging, side by side
| Plastic paver edging | Aluminum paver edging | Steel edging | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Profile | thick L with a wide flange | thin L, 1/8 or 3/16 in wall | thin strip, 14 to 12 gauge |
| Height examples | 1 3/4 in (Sure-loc heavy duty) | 1 1/8 to 4 in (Sure-loc range) | varies |
| Curves | bends; some need flange notches | bends by hand; tight corners | large arcs only |
| Spikes | 10 in steel | 10 in steel | stakes or spikes |
| Open-graded base | not suitable (Unilock, Polycor) | check the system maker's spec | landscape use |
| Cost per foot (Sure-loc blog) | about $1.70 to $3.00 | about $2.80 to $4.00 | higher |
| Visible when done | hidden if set low | hidden, low profile | top edge often shows |
Two things stand out. Both restraints rely on the same spike, and plastic costs less for the same length. The real differences are the base they work with, how they turn corners, and how low they can sit.
Where plastic paver edging wins
Plastic restraint is the default for residential pavers for good reasons:
- Curves. Flexible versions bend around radius curves without cutting. Sure-loc's flexible plastic restraint is sold as needing no cutting for curves; heavier straight profiles are notched on the flange side to bend.
- Cost. At roughly $1.70 to $3.00 a foot against $2.80 to $4.00 for aluminum (figures from Sure-loc, a company that sells both), a 60-foot patio perimeter saves real money.
- Forgiveness. It's easy to cut with a hacksaw or loppers, easy to reposition before the spikes go in, and it doesn't kink if you bend it wrong.
- Kits. Home-center kits, such as ProFlex's 48-foot paver edging project kit, bundle sections, connectors and spikes. Count the spikes against your spacing plan before trusting the box; kits sized by length don't always include enough spikes for curves.
Unilock's plastic vs concrete edge restraint guide sets two details worth copying exactly: set the plastic so it sits about 1/2 inch below the top of the pavers, and make sure the spikes go into compacted base, not bedding sand. It also says plastic works best over 3/4-inch minus crusher run to ASTM D2940, the dense-graded base most patios use.
Where aluminum or steel is worth the money
Metal edging is the upgrade, not the default. It earns its price in four situations:
- Open-graded or permeable bases. Both Unilock and Polycor say plastic restraint is not suitable for open-graded bases. Clean, open stone has no fines to lock a wide plastic flange in place, and the spikes have less to grip. If you're building a permeable patio, use the restraint the system's manufacturer specifies.
- Sharp corners and crisp lines. Sure-loc's aluminum paver restraint specs say its aluminum can be bent into 90-degree angles as often as every 4 inches without cutting. Plastic makes gentle corners; aluminum makes square ones.
- Low profiles and thin pavers. Aluminum comes in heights as low as 1 1/8 inches (Sure-loc's range), which suits thin pavers and natural stone. Polycor's guide describes low-profile 5/8-inch aluminum for natural stone installations.
- Large-format natural stone. Polycor says plastic lacks the structural support for heavier, large-format stone pavers.
Steel edging sits in a different category. It's sold mainly as landscape edging between lawn and beds, where a visible top edge is the point. As a hidden paver restraint, aluminum does the same job without the rust question.
Spikes do the holding, so plan them first
My one strong opinion here: people agonize over plastic versus aluminum and then under-spike whichever they buy. The material only has to stay in one piece. The spikes transfer the push of the paver field into the compacted base, and that is where restraints fail.
Spacing depends on the product and the load:
| Situation | Spacing |
|---|---|
| Plastic, straight run (Left Coast Pavers guide) | every 12 to 18 in |
| Aluminum, patios and walks (Sure-loc) | every 16 to 20 in, plus the ends |
| Aluminum, driveways and heavy loads (Sure-loc) | every 8 to 12 in, plus the ends |
| Any curve | tighter than the straight run |
| Every joint between sections | a spike on each side |
Aluminum's stiffer wall spreads the load between spikes, which is why its patio spacing can be wider. Plastic flexes between spikes, so keep it tight.
Two spike details that matter:
- Length. 10-inch spikes are standard for both types (Sure-loc lists 10-inch, 3/8-inch-diameter steel spikes for aluminum; Left Coast uses 10-inch spikes for plastic). Heavy-duty plastic can take 12-inch nails.
- Non-galvanized. Unilock and Left Coast both call for plain, non-galvanized steel spikes. A light coat of rust roughens the surface and grips the base better than a smooth galvanized one. Angle them slightly for extra hold.
(The spike is the least glamorous part of a patio. It is also the part that keeps the glamorous part in one place.)
What the difference costs on a real patio
Take a 12 x 16 foot patio built against the house, so three sides need restraint: 12 + 16 + 12 = 40 feet.
| Plastic | Aluminum | |
|---|---|---|
| Edging, 40 ft (Sure-loc price ranges) | about $68 to $120 | about $112 to $160 |
| Spikes on straight runs | about 40 at 12 in spacing | about 30 at 16 in spacing |
| Extra spikes at joints and ends | a few more | a few more |
The gap is roughly $40 to $50 on a patio this size. That is small next to the cost of the pavers and the base stone, which is why the choice should follow the base type and the design rather than the price tag. On a heavily curved patio, flexible plastic also saves the time spent notching or bending stiffer profiles.
How each type fails, and how to spot it early
Plastic rarely breaks. It fails by moving. Unilock notes that plastic restraint can creep with seasonal freeze-thaw cycles and that spikes can shift, which is why it recommends seasonal inspections. Signs:
- the outer row of pavers tilts outward or the joints along the edge open;
- the edging shows above the backfill after a winter;
- a spike head pops up.
Fix it early: pull the backfill away, re-seat the edging, drive a fresh spike beside each loose one, and backfill.
Aluminum fails at joints and ends. If sections aren't connected or spiked at each end, the joint opens and the last pavers slide. Sure-loc designs its sections with non-overlapping joints; whichever brand you use, spike both sides of every joint.
Both fail the same way when installed on bedding sand instead of base. Sand is loose by design, so the spikes have nothing to hold. This is the most common install error with either material, and the one this page's diagram is drawn to prevent.
Installing either type so it stays put
The steps are identical for plastic and metal:
- Extend the base past the edge. The compacted base must run beyond the pavers so the edging and spikes sit on it. CMHA ties that extension to base thickness, so a 6-inch base runs about 6 inches past the edge.
- Lay and cut the pavers first on straight runs, then set the edging tight against the outer course.
- Cut back the bedding sand where the edging goes, so the flange sits on compacted base.
- Set the height about 1/2 inch below the paver top (Unilock).
- Spike at the planned spacing, tighter on curves, and at every joint.
- Compact the pavers with the edging in place, then backfill soil against the outside.
Plastic for most patios, metal for stone, permeables and sharp lines
Plastic paver edging is the sensible choice for a typical patio or walkway on dense-graded base: it bends, it costs less, and it holds when it sits on compacted base with enough 10-inch spikes. Pay for aluminum when the base is open-graded, the design needs square corners or a very low profile, or the pavers are heavy natural stone. Whichever you choose, buy extra spikes; they cost pennies, and the patio remembers every one you skipped. For driveway edges, a poured curb may be the better answer; see paver curbing.
FAQ
Is plastic or metal paver edging better?
For most dense-graded patio bases, plastic works as well and costs less. Aluminum is better for open-graded or permeable bases, sharp corners, low profiles and large natural stone.
What spike spacing do plastic and aluminum edging need?
For plastic, about every 12 to 18 inches on straight runs and closer on curves. Sure-loc specifies every 16 to 20 inches for aluminum on patios and 8 to 12 inches for driveways, plus a spike at each end and joint.
Can plastic paver edging be used on a driveway?
It can with close spike spacing, but many installers prefer a concrete curb or toe for driveway edges because tires push hard on the edge. See our paver curbing guide for that option.
Should paver edging spikes be galvanized?
No. Unilock and Left Coast Pavers recommend non-galvanized steel spikes, because a thin layer of rust helps them grip the base.
Does paver edging go on top of the sand?
No. It should sit on the compacted base, with the bedding sand cut back, so the spikes drive into firm material. Edging on sand moves with the sand.
